Dallas Peak

13,812 ftColorado Centennials

Dallas Peak is the dark, tower-crowned summit on the divide between Ouray and San Miguel counties, a little over 3 miles north of Telluride and just southwest of Mount Sneffels. It sits in the Mount Sneffels Wilderness and honors George M. Dallas, the eleventh U.S. vice president. It has a reputation as one of the hardest Centennials: no walk-up line reaches the top, and most parties rope up for the final low fifth-class moves on rotten rock.

One west ridge route leaves the Mill Creek trailhead above Telluride and follows the Sneffels Highline Trail, then climbs past a rock glacier and up a great couloir to a ridge of rock towers below the summit. Plan on about 10 miles round trip and 4,500 feet of gain. The finish is low Class 5, with a short lead to the top and a rappel on the way down; bring a rope, harnesses, slings, and rappel gear. The Southwest Rib/West Ridge variation is harder still: 12 miles and 4,700 feet, with a 5.6 trad pitch on fractured rock, an airy ridge with low fifth-class moves, and several rappels down the east side.

Loose rock is the rule on every line, so wear helmets, keep parties small, and allow time for careful rope work before afternoon storms. Snow patches linger early in the season. The reward is a tight summit perch over Blue Lakes Basin and upper Mill Creek, with Sneffels close at hand.