Gladstone Peak is the quiet thirteener of the Wilson group in the San Miguel Mountains, joined to Wilson Peak and Mount Wilson by loose, rocky ridges. Named for British Prime Minister William Gladstone, it sits on the divide between the San Juan and Uncompahgre national forests in the Lizard Head Wilderness, about 11 miles southwest of Telluride, and it fills the head of Navajo Basin and the view from the saddle above Silver Pick Basin.
The North Ridge is the usual route: 11.25 miles round trip with 4,100 feet of gain from the Rock of Ages trailhead. The crest turns Class 4 at a steep downclimb about 0.2 miles south of Point 13,341, with a Class 3 bypass on the east side. Rock quality is poor for most of the ridge and the flanks are worse, so staying on or near the crest is the safer choice. The Southwest Ridge is a Class 5 outing of about 11 miles and 4,500 feet with serious exposure and rockfall. A longer approach through Bilk Basin from the Sunshine Mesa trailhead runs about 12.5 miles and 4,320 feet; private property surrounds the trailhead areas, so respect posted boundaries.
A helmet earns its keep here, and parties climbing together should spread out on the loose blocks. The summit looks straight at both Wilsons across rubble-filled basins. Winters are cold and snowy, and summer brings regular afternoon thunderstorms, so start early.
