North Eolus (14,042 ft) rises as a satellite summit just north of Mount Eolus in the Needle Mountains of the Weminuche Wilderness, deep in Colorado's San Juan range. Remote by any measure, it is typically reached by riding the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad to the Needleton stop and hiking roughly six miles into Chicago Basin at about 11,200 feet. From there, gaining North Eolus adds relatively little effort to an already substantial day, making it a natural companion to its taller neighbor.
The standard approach follows the Eolus Northeast Ridge route until the col between the two summits, where the Catwalk traverses a slender, exposed ridge, sometimes only five feet wide, with steep drop-offs on both sides. From that col, the South Ridge of North Eolus involves brief Class 3 scrambling on grippy rock, gaining the summit in roughly 20 minutes. The connecting ridge between the two peaks is Class 2 with moderate exposure.
From the top, the other Chicago Basin 14ers, Sunlight and Windom, fill the skyline along with a spread of rugged Weminuche 13ers: Pigeon, Turret, Vestal, and Arrow peaks. Afternoon thunderstorms build quickly across the San Juans, making an alpine start from Chicago Basin important. Snow lingers on the upper routes well into July.
